Mid-Century Credenza: Tapered Legs, Sliding Doors and That 1960s Look

Understanding the Mid-Century Aesthetic

Mid-century modern design emerged from the post-war optimism of the 1950s and 1960s, when furniture makers embraced clean geometry, honest materials, and a rejection of ornament for ornament’s sake. The credenza – that long, low storage piece that anchors a dining room or living space – became an icon of the era. Building one today requires understanding not just the construction methods, but the design philosophy that made these pieces timeless.

The credenza I’m detailing runs 72 inches long, 18 inches deep, and 30 inches tall. It features four tapered legs, two sliding doors on a track system, and interior adjustable shelving. Material cost lands around $400-500 using domestic walnut, or roughly half that with white oak or cherry.

Case Construction: The Foundation

Mid-century credenzas typically use a torsion box top for flatness and stability without excessive weight. Laminate two sheets of 3/4-inch plywood with an internal grid of 1×2 spacers creating 6-inch cells. This engineering principle allows for a solid top that won’t sag over a 72-inch span while keeping the piece light enough to move without a furniture dolly.

The case sides are solid 3/4-inch hardwood panels, book-matched from the same board when possible. Join the case using tongue and groove joinery along the bottom and top edges, reinforced with screws driven through the top (hidden by the removable deck) and bottom panel.

Tapered Legs: The Signature Detail

Those distinctive tapered legs define mid-century design. Start with 2-inch square blanks of your chosen hardwood, cut to 8 inches long. Taper on two adjacent faces from 2 inches at the top (where it meets the case) to 1 inch at the floor. This taper should begin 1 inch below the attachment point, leaving a square shoulder for mounting.

I cut tapers on the table saw using a shop-made tapering jig – essentially a sled that holds the leg blank at the precise angle needed for consistent cuts. Sand the transition smooth and slightly round the corners with a block plane for that organic, hand-finished feel.

Attach legs using hanger bolts driven into the leg top and threaded into corner blocks mounted inside the case. This allows for removal during moving and ensures the legs can be tightened if they ever loosen from wood movement.

Sliding Door System

The sliding doors are arguably the most complex element. Each door panel is a frame-and-panel construction using 2-inch wide stiles and rails with a 1/4-inch plywood panel set into a 3/8-inch deep groove. The panel floats, allowing for seasonal wood movement without binding.

For the track system, route a 3/8-inch wide, 1/4-inch deep groove in the bottom of the case interior. The upper track is a matching groove in an applied strip attached to the underside of the top. Fit each door with plastic or nylon glides – small discs that ride in these grooves with minimal friction.

The doors should overlap by approximately 2 inches at center when both are closed. This creates the characteristic mid-century look and ensures contents are always accessible from either side.

Interior Organization

Install adjustable shelving using brass shelf pins in 32mm-spaced holes – the European system that provides maximum flexibility. Drill these holes using a shop-made jig to ensure alignment. One fixed vertical divider at center prevents the shelves from sagging and creates distinct storage zones.

Finishing for Authenticity

Authentic mid-century pieces typically featured oil finishes rather than heavy lacquer or polyurethane. A penetrating oil like Danish oil or tung oil enhances the grain while providing moderate protection. Apply three coats, wet-sanding the final coat with 600-grit paper for a satiny smooth surface.

For hardware, keep it minimal or eliminate it entirely. Finger pulls routed into the door edges maintain clean lines. If you prefer pulls, choose simple brass or chrome bars in minimal sizes – the design should speak for itself without decorative distraction.

The Payoff

A well-built mid-century credenza represents 30-40 hours of careful work, but the result is furniture that transcends trends. Vintage originals from makers like Knoll or Herman Miller now sell for thousands at auction. Your handmade version, built with quality materials and proper technique, belongs in that same conversation.