Turn Scrap Wood Into Gallery-Worthy Picture Frames

The Hidden Value of Offcuts

Every woodworking project generates scraps. Those cutoffs, offcuts, and leftover pieces accumulate in bins and corners, too nice to throw away but too small for major projects. Picture frames offer the perfect solution – transforming waste material into finished goods that have genuine value and purpose. A frame that took ten minutes to make from free material can sell for $30 or grace your own walls for a lifetime.

This article covers frame construction from scraps of various sizes and species, including techniques for combining mismatched pieces into cohesive designs. The only purchased material is backing board and glass – everything else comes from your scrap pile.

Assessing Your Scrap Pile

Sort your scraps by species and approximate dimensions. Pieces as small as 12 inches long and 1 inch wide can become frame components. Look for straight grain and flat surfaces – this isn’t the project for severely cupped or twisted material.

Note which species you have multiples of. Matching grain and color matters more than matching exact dimensions – you can mill pieces to consistent sizes, but you can’t change the species. Group similar materials together and plan frames accordingly.

Basic Frame Joinery

Picture frames traditionally use miter joints at the corners – those 45-degree cuts that meet to form a perfect 90-degree corner. The challenge is achieving tight miters with minimal material waste.

Set your miter saw or table saw miter gauge to exactly 45 degrees using a precision square. Test the setting by cutting four pieces of scrap and assembling them dry – any error multiplies by four at the corners. Micro-adjust until test frames close perfectly.

For the strongest miter joints, reinforce with splines. Cut a kerf across each corner after assembly, then glue in thin strips of contrasting or matching wood. Splines add mechanical strength and, with contrasting wood, create a decorative detail that elevates simple frames.

Profile Options From Simple Stock

Flat stock makes perfectly acceptable frames, but molded profiles add visual interest. A simple cove cut on the table saw using an angled fence creates elegant shadow lines. A roundover bit softens edges. A rabbet on the back edge creates the lip that holds glass and artwork.

Combine operations for more complex profiles. A rabbeted back edge, slight cove on the face, and roundover on the outer corner produces a classic profile from basic router bits. Experiment on scrap pieces before committing to your frame stock.

Mixing Species Intentionally

When matching species isn’t possible, make the contrast intentional. A walnut frame with maple splines looks deliberate. Cherry sides with oak top and bottom suggests a designed pattern. Alternating species around the frame creates contemporary visual rhythm.

Keep contrast consistent – all four corners should match, all four sides should relate. Random mixing looks like a mistake; planned mixing looks like design.

Assembly and Glue-Up

Band clamps work well for frame glue-ups, applying even pressure around the entire perimeter. Alternatively, use spring clamps or rubber bands stretched corner to corner. Check for square before the glue sets – measure diagonals and adjust clamp pressure to correct any deviation.

For frames with splines, assemble and glue the basic frame first, allowing it to cure overnight. Then cut spline kerfs and add splines as a second operation. This sequence ensures flat, accurate spline cuts.

Finishing Small Parts Efficiently

Batch your finishing for efficiency. Sand all frame components before assembly, finishing through 220-grit. Apply finish to disassembled frames using a simple rack made from scrap wood and finishing nails – pieces rest on the nail points, allowing full coverage without wet spots contacting surfaces.

Wipe-on polyurethane works beautifully for small frames. Three thin coats, sanded lightly between applications, builds a durable finish quickly. Oil finishes work equally well and dry faster.

Backing and Hanging

Cut backing from 1/8-inch hardboard or thin plywood. The backing should fit snugly into the rabbet, held in place with glazier’s points or small brads. Add sawtooth hangers for smaller frames; wire hanging systems for larger ones.

Consider offering frames to local artists at wholesale prices, or selling finished frames at craft markets. Either way, you’re converting waste into value – the essence of efficient craftsmanship.