I burned through three cheap circular saws before I finally bought a decent one. Wish somebody had just told me upfront what actually matters when picking one of these things. Wouldve saved me a couple hundred bucks and a lot of frustration.
So heres my attempt to be that somebody for you.
The Two Main Styles And Why It Matters
Sidewinder versus worm drive. If youve looked at circular saws at all, youve probably seen these terms thrown around.
Sidewinders have the motor sitting right next to the blade. Theyre lighter, usually cheaper, and what most DIYers end up with. I used a sidewinder for years and it did everything I needed. For furniture work, cutting plywood, general shop use – totally fine.
Worm drives put the motor behind the blade. Theyre heavier, have more torque, and honestly feel like a different tool. Framers and construction guys love them. Personally, I find them tiring to use all day, but for ripping through thick hardwood, nothing beats them.
I currently have one of each. If I could only keep one, itd be the sidewinder just because I use it more. But that worm drive comes out when Im doing anything demanding.
Blade Size: 7 and 1/4 Inch Is Usually Right
Most circular saws use 7 and 1/4 inch blades. Thats not arbitrary – that size cuts through a 2×4 at 45 degrees in one pass, which is sort of the benchmark.
Smaller saws exist – 4 and 1/2 and 6 and 1/2 inch – and theyre lighter and easier to handle. Great for trim work or if youre working in tight spaces. But you sacrifice cutting depth.
Stick with 7 and 1/4 inch for a first saw. Thats my advice.
Amps and Power
A 15-amp motor is what you want for anything serious. My first cheap saw was something like 10 amps and it would bog down cutting thick oak. Frustrating, and actually dangerous because it would kick back more.
Some cordless saws are legit powerful now too. Ive got a DeWalt 20V MAX that I bring to job sites when running a cord isnt practical. For occasional cuts, its great. For an afternoon of breaking down plywood, Id want corded power.
Dont get too hung up on RPM numbers. Thats mostly marketing.
What Ive Actually Used
Let me run through the saws Ive owned or borrowed extensively:
DeWalt DWE575SB – This is my daily driver. Lightweight for a 15-amp saw, good visibility to the cut line, and the electric brake stops the blade fast when you let go of the trigger. Ive put hundreds of cuts through this thing and its still running perfect.
Makita 5007F – Borrowed this from a friend for a month. Really solid saw, maybe slightly better build quality than the DeWalt. The magnesium base keeps it light.
Skilsaw SPT77WML – My worm drive. This thing is a beast. Heavy, powerful, and kind of intimidating honestly. For ripping hardwood, nothing else comes close. But I wouldnt want it for everyday work.
Milwaukee M18 Fuel – The cordless option. Cuts way better than battery saws did five years ago. Real impressive technology. But the batteries are expensive.
Features That Actually Matter
Electric brake: Worth it. Stops the blade in about two seconds instead of coasting for ten. Safer, and just less annoying.
Bevel capacity: Most saws do 45 degrees. Some go to 50 or 55. Honestly, Ive needed more than 45 maybe twice in ten years. Nice to have, not essential.
Blade visibility: This matters more than I thought. Being able to see exactly where youre cutting makes a big difference in accuracy.
Shoe quality: The base plate should be flat and sturdy. My cheap first saw had an aluminum shoe that warped slightly. Drove me crazy trying to figure out why my cuts werent square.
Safety Stuff – This Is Important
Circular saws scare me more than any other tool in my shop, and thats healthy. That blade is spinning inches from your hand and it will cut through bone just as easily as wood.
Keep the blade guard working. Dont tie it back or remove it. The guard is there for a reason.
Check your blade before every use. A dull blade or one with missing teeth is more dangerous than a sharp one because it binds and kicks back.
Never cut freehand without proper support for the piece. Ive had kickback happen once and it was terrifying.
Keeping It Running
These are pretty simple tools to maintain. Blow out the sawdust after use. Check that the blade is tight before cutting. Replace brushes when they wear out.
The blade itself matters. I keep a general-purpose carbide blade on for everyday work, and swap in a finish blade when Im doing something that needs clean edges. A good blade transforms how the saw cuts.
Store it somewhere dry. The shoe can corrode if it sits in a damp environment.
So Which One Should You Buy?
If youre doing furniture work and general woodworking in a home shop, grab a 15-amp sidewinder. DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Bosch – any of those brands will serve you well. Youll have a saw that lasts for years.
If youre doing construction work or heavy timber stuff, look at worm drives. Theyre more money and more weight, but the extra capability is real.
Skip the cheap stuff. I learned this the hard way. Buy once, cry once, as the saying goes.
